Standing at No. 1 on the Middle East and North Africa World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the second year in a row, my dining partner and I were keen to dine at Orfali Bros. Bistro on a sunny weekday morning. But we weren’t alone, our 11-month-old joined us, allowing us to take a peek into an added layer of hospitality we certainly weren’t expecting – more on this later.
At the helm of Orfali Bros. Bistro are three Syrian brothers who set up a family-run restaurant at Wasl 51, nearly two years ago. The two-storey open kitchen adorned with industrial chic elements serves as the focal point, with the venue exuding a cosy vibe with plenty of natural light flooding the space.
We had the pleasure of meeting with the TV personality and chef Mohamad, who works alongside his brothers Wassim and Omar, hailed for their pastry skills. Chatting with diners, Mohamad’s charm and presence truly elevated our dining experience.
Highlights
The menu is concise with each plate featuring a story told with great flair by the knowledgable and passionate team. The OB croquette was our first hearty bite, sinking our teeth into a warm filling of celeriac and 18-month-old comté cheese with truffle mayo at the bottom. We’re told to eat the Ooh la la – presented on a thin, round mini waffle – in one bite, and following instructions, we do so to experience a creamy mouthfeel of foie gras complemented by hazelnut miso and quince vinegar. It’s evident by this point that taste and texture reign supreme on this menu.
One of my favourites, the Corn bomb, was presented next – a playful dish that spotlights just one ingredient. The first bite of the crisp corn tostada topped with creamed custard-like corn and charred kernels, scattered a little of the soft snow of 36-month-old Parmigiano Reggiano all over the table. Washing us over in a big creamy wave this dish is messy but oh-so-delish! The caviar bun, served as a one-bite dish, sits on a delicate layer of smetana, topped with a generous serving of dark, plump caviar – the flavour-tactile dynamic is exquisite.
The Umami éclair is a tiny powerhouse. A porcini emulsion and marmite burst onto the palate, sweetened by fermented quince glaze. Crunchy cacao nibs and salty beef prosciutto not only add texture but also evolve the flavour profile. Every ounce of flavour is crammed into the first bite of the Ajoblanco as you take a spoonful of the firm and sweet Hokkaido scallop and scoop the sauce embellished with slivers of black garlic, bold tomato raisins and tart finger lime. It’s the olive oil caviar that does it for us. The Orfali bayildi featuring tender, smoky eggplant, showcases a multi-layered complexity with the makdous muhammara, tarator and accompanying aromatic elements.
As soon as we were served the eat H, my baby woke up, pointing to the food on the table indicating she’d like some. Served her very own slice of toasted sourdough with butter, she snacked while people-watching. Meanwhile, we polished off the shiso leaf topped with a blob of spicy burghul salad mixed with Aleppo chilli paste, tomatoes, puffed burghul and olive oil. The freshness of the produce was met with crunchy and soft textures married with spicy notes. Another fresh dish with ingredients that stole the spotlight was the Tuna sala roja. Each bite was a juicy explosion of fermented tomato, sea fennel, aji rocoto and tomato raisins.
Only just starting with the Hot menu items, we were served the Shish barak a la gyoza. These lightly fried and steamed dumplings with soft wagyu beef, dressed in sujuk oil and pine nuts, lend a Middle Eastern touch to a typically Asian dish. Laying pretty in a pool of garlic yoghurt, it’s the perfect warm parcel to preceed the kebabs.
Chef Mohamad came by to present Come with me to Aleppo which tells the story of their homeland of Syria through a modern interpretation of the kebab. At this point, my baby was starting to get a little restless in her stroller, so she went along with Chef Mohamad to greet the other diners and meet the kitchen staff behind the counter. Eagerly we took our first bite of the perfectly charred Wagyu beef kebab, carpeted with sour cherry, parsley, pine nuts and cinnamon. Each morsel had a robust depth of flavour with subtle nuances.
The alluring dessert display of colourful confectioneries and artfully created desserts beckoned. Incredibly full to try more than one, we decided to share the OB banoffee cake. Cracked open to reveal layers, this dessert slab lends lush, velvety textures.
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