Growing up in the UAE, I’ve always found it challenging to articulate the essence of Dubai cuisine. While Dubai lacks a quintessential dish that enjoys global recognition, those who grew up in the city often cherish nostalgic bonds with certain foods and dining experiences, serving as a reflection of its rich culinary diversity.
Enter chef Solemann Haddad, who encapsulates the soul of Dubai’s culinary landscape through his degustation menu served Omakase-style. Arriving for the early seating at 6:30pm, we were awe-struck by the skyline views from the rooftop vantage point. Within the glass-walled confines of the U-shaped chef’s table restaurant, adorned with emerald hues, we embarked on a sensory journey, observing the kitchen team as they orchestrated each dish with precision. Welcoming us with a refreshing concoction, my dining partner and I chose to continue with the grape pairing menu, beautifully executed by the restaurant manager, Farhan.
The highlights
Chef Solemann guides us through each dish, accompanied by charming story cards with stunning artwork. Commencing the menu with a bang, the Explosion 2020 stars a Pani puri – a dish that many of us born and raised in the UAE grew up with. To be eaten in one bite, the foie gras ganache fills the palate, imminently followed by the sweetness of date syrup and white chocolate, complemented by the earthiness of the Umbrian truffle. The pineapple & saffron chutney sets in, fused with pungency from the Szechuan pepper.
Spotlighting locally sourced tomatoes and microgreens in the succeeding dish, I was surprised to learn the produce wasn’t hydroponically grown. Roots is a representation of harvest from UAE’s farms. Acidity is at the core of this vibrant bowl of local cherry tomatoes, placed on a bed of house-made labneh infused with local zaatar. Topped with nori and zaatar furikake, it resembles the gritty texture of the soil.
A slice of gourmet Grilled cheese is up next, a decadent couple of bites comprising Hokkaido milk bread from a local Japanese bakery, a 30-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano and black pepper emulsion, and carpaccio of a single clove of Thai black garlic to offset the richness while elevating the dish. This dish ranked among the top five bites of the entire meal.
The Syrian Sumac follows, delighting with the Middle Eastern spice mixed with shoyu. The tangy sauce is brightened with Amalfi lemons, pairing flawlessly with the lightly cured, fatty hamachi. Garnished with hazelnuts, the textures weave together sublimely. The Moonrise Khubz ties together the various types of bread available across Dubai. We’ll spare you the ingredient details so that it’s a surprise for your visit, but imagine a warm, fluffy Khubz served with a moreish miso date butter. Save some of this Khubz to scoop up gravies and sauces in the dishes to follow.
The Alfredo Pasta (pictured above) is an ode to one of chef Solemann’s favourite childhood dishes from a food court in Dubai. Another standout moment of this meal, the refined version is recreated with layers of ravioli with lobster and jalapeno, sat in an umami-rich Alfredo sauce. The seafood course that follows highlights a zingy Sarookh sauce; a blend of ponzu and organic butter that coats a silky Hokkaido scallop, finished with Russian Oscietra caviar. Having never experienced a beurre blanc with Khubz, I soaked half of the chewy, doughy goodness, adding a smidge of caviar for that umami boost.
The Khoory kebab up next, is an upscale rendition of the Loomi (Emirati black lime) tikka from the chef’s favourite local spot, Khoory Special Kebab in Mamzar. Inspired by the flavours and techniques, the version here features a melt-in-your-mouth A5 Sirloin with a punchy purée, best eaten scooped with the edible flower arrangement.
A refreshing, creamy Orange & Sumac palate cleanser paves the way for the next course. Handed the dessert card, we were intrigued to notice it pays homage to one of our favourite types of restaurants for takeaway. Cafeteria Culture is undoubtedly at the beating heart of the local food scene, and the Abood Juice cheesecake did it justice. Influenced by the flavours of the Abood Juice, at the base of the cheesecake sits a brown butter crumble, layered with a white chocolate and vanilla cheesecake, with Sidr honey from a neighbouring emirate, and a tuille from Alphonso mangoes. An exquisite creation!
The Starry Night finale with a cup of Genmaicha perfectly rounds off our Moonrise experience, one my dining partner and I will remember until our next visit.
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AED850 per person. Contact +971506972946 or visit moon-rise.xyz.
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